Tuesday, September 05, 2006

Dancing In The Streets

Well, I have been in the lovely Otavalo, Ecuador for just over a week now and was fortunate enough this past weekend to experience the annual "Fiesta del Yamor". The fiesta is named after a non-alcoholic corn drink, Yamor, which is made of 7 varieties of corn. It doesn´t taste too bad I have to admit. The owner of the hostel where I am staying tell´s me the fiesta is a celebration, thanking god for the year´s supply of food.

And what a celebration it was! An exciting vibe was all over town in the days leading up to the big event. By the time the "opening night" finally arrived, the town was in complete party mode. A massive 4 hour parade opened the fiesta on Friday night. Four hours a little long I thought, but the locals thrived on it and the atmosphere was fantastic. There were floats carrying everyone from rose throwing fiesta queens to local politicians. There were dancers in traditional dress from regions all over Ecuador. There was music, there was singing, there was dancing and of course, loads of fireworks! Bands, DJ´s, the dancing and singing continued on the streets and in venues across town until the early hours of the morning. I have to say, the Ecuadorians certainly know how to party. And the men certainly know how to dance!

Saturday, the fiesta continued with more music and dancing in the centre. There was bull fighting in the afternoon and other various forms of entertainment, through to late in the evening once again. And the tourists. Mostly Ecuadorian. People were everywhere! The small population must have at least tripled over the weekend? And in addition to the fiesta, the weekly and very popular Saturday market was on. The market is the reason for most tourists to stop in Otavalo. It is said to be one of the most important markets in Inca history. Streets are closed and stalls are erected everywhere! Locals and tourists alike flock to the market to browse, shop & barter. Plaza de Ponchos is the centre of the action. It is here you can find everything from weavings, jewellery, art, musical instruments and much more, all locally made. Moving away from the plaza you will find everything from clothing, shoes, poncho´s, street food & fresh fruit and veg. It was quite the eventful day.

To end the day´s excitement, what´s a girl to do but go and watch the Saturday night Cock Fighting! Yes, you heard right. I sat at the cock fighting ring for a good hour witnessing what I found to be border line disturbing, yet strangley fascinating? The local security guard who escorted me to this traditional and weekly event, (yes, you heard right again), found my reaction to it all most amusing. I could barely watch when we first entered, yet found myself asking the "rules" and taking a few photo´s by the time we left. The locals take it very seriously. There is yelling, cheering, drinking, smoking, abusing the referees (yes, there are 2 referees), and there is BIG money being passed around! The poor little cock´s even have small blades attached to their little legs. They crow, rip each others feathers out, peck at each others eyes until one of them basically can take no more, gives in and collapses. Not die, just collapse, feathers flat to the ground. It´s almost like when a boxer is knocked out? Bizarre! I also had the priviledge of witnessing a new cock fighting record...a cock was "knocked out" in less than a minute! Unheard of apparently? The crowd were astounded. The winning cock´s owner elated.

By the time Sunday came around, I was well and truly ready to escape the still manic town, and head for the hills. Myself, a lovely German couple, one Swiss and one English girl set off for a leisurely Sunday stroll around Laguna Cuicocha, a crater lake that lies within an extinct and eroded volcano. 12km´s and 4 1/2 hours later, we were both physically and mentally exhausted, filthy dirty, yet on quite a high! The hike although tough going at times, was great. The first half to three quarters of the hike was pretty much climbing what felt like endless peaks. Add the altitude and it just made it that little bit more challenging? Thankfully the final hour was mostly flat or down hill! But throughout, the views across the lake, out to VolcĂ n Cotacachi and the surrounding Andean forest were beautiful. Well worth the moments of "what the hell am I doing!"

A few hours later, the five of us were showered and fresh as daisy´s, filling up on pasta and a Margarita or two! It was the perfect wind down to what was a great weekend.