Galapagos Wonderland

I have just experienced an amazing eight days, island hopping around the world of Galapagos! It is another world, and what a wonderful world it is.

After arriving in Baltra, myself and 8 other passengers were met by the tiny, yet gorgeous Edwin. Edwin is a freelance naturalist guide and was the guide we would have on board the Galapagos Adventurer II, the "ship" we were soon to board. After a brief bus ride to the dock, we were greeted by our ship´s dingy and three very relaxed sea lions, lazing about in the sun slothed out on a couple of benches. We were off to a good start with our wildlife spotting!

I was surprisingly impressed with our ship. It was all very civilised. The crew formally greeted us over a cocktail, there was a lovely dining area, comfortable lounge area, clean and simple cabins with bathroom. Although tiny, they served their purpose. Bar up on deck along with tables, chairs and sun beds. And a great bunch of people which is always a bonus! Everyone seemed to click pretty quickly and we all got on extremely well given for the most part it was just us, the crew and Edwin for the following days. I shared a cabin with the lovely Jade, another Aussie girl from Melbourne. Thankfully we got on pretty well given our close living quarters!

Anyhow, from day one our day´s pretty much went like this;

• Wake up call at 6.30am via the delighful ringing of a bell. Yes, that is right...a bell and at 6.30am! Hmmmm....as some of you know, I am not really a morning person at the best of times so this did take more than a little getting used to!
• 7.00am, breakfast. Huge breakfast with everything from cereals, continental style bits and pieces, pancakes, eggs, fresh fruit, fresh juices, coffee, tea etc. The list goes on...
• 7.30am, jump in our little dingy and venture out to explore a new island. Walk along all types of terrain checking out the local wildlife which varied from island to island.
• Approx 10.30, 11.00am, back on the ship greeted by crew member with snacks and drinks.
• 12.00pm, lunch. 2 to 3 courses. Different everyday and always delicious and surprisingly healthy.
• 2.30pm, off for some snorkelling or another walk. Many days both. On average we had a morning and afternoon walk and snorkel.
• 5.00pm, back on boat. More snacks and drinks.
• 6.30pm, briefing on the next days island visit, potential wildlife spotting etc.
• 7.00pm, 2 to 3 course dinner. Different everyday, healthy and fabulous. The lobster was the definate highlight of the week!
• 8.30pm, bed. Yes you heard right. All nights bar 2 I was in bed before 9pm as were most passengers. Action filled days, salt water and sunshine are very exhausting!

Now the wildlife...Just extraordinary, as was the scenery. I think I saw just about as much as I could possibly be lucky enough to see in our new little world? Sea lions almost everywhere we went, many with their pups which are just adorable. There were land and marine iguana´s, giant tortoises at both the Darwin Research Centre and in the wild, albatros, frigates, lava lizards, sea turtles, stingrays, mantarays, dolphins, whales, white and black tip sharks, loads of bright coloured fish in all shapes and sizes, all other kinds of marine and birdlife, pink flamingos, penguins and of course the blue footed boobies! Given their name, you see all types of weird and wonderful suveneirs and t-shirts on the mainland referencing these blue footed birds...the boobie jokes did wear a little thin after a while I have to say.

However, I digress...to be out snorkelling and have a 6ft long, white tip shark zip right under you, or a 250kg dominant bull (male sea lion) swim right by you, so close you almost feel him brush against your skin. Or maybe the sea turtle that casually swims by without a worry in the world, or the playful sea lions frolicking about so close you could reach out and touch them...all this and more leaving you on a constant high, day in, day out. And the simple things which have you looking on in amazement. Like a sea lion who has literally just given birth to a pup. I´m talking so recent, the fresh placenta is still nearby untouched. Or a marine iguana parade! An array of red and green coming from every direction, passing right by your feet as they head to the water for feeding time. Nature really is a wonderful thing.

As for the islands themselves, one minute your on a white sandy beach, the next red sand and covered in cactus, or black volcanic rock, maybe even lush and green just for something different...you name it, we saw it.

The Galapagos wonderland. Truly a wonderful little world to experience!

My week in Quito

When in the big city, what does one get up to when one is not a fan of big cities;

1) Attend 4 hour Spanish lesson
2) Go to pub
3) Attend 4 hour Spanish lesson
4) Drink red wine on hostal terrace
5) Attend 4 hour Spanish lesson
6) Go to pub
7) Attend 4 hour Spanish lesson
8) Have drinks on hostal terrace, then go to pub!

Thanks to two crazy Irish lads, an Aussie mining boy and an Aussie chica from Canberra, my liver is somewhat struggling? Yes, it's been an eventful week in Quito!

What is too comfortable?

Monday just gone, I decided it was finally time to leave Otavalo. I could have stayed much longer, however I did not think it too healthy to feel so comfortable somewhere so early on in the trip? And I think you know it´s time to move on when the staff in the local cafes know you on a first name basis, your hostal owner is inviting you for wine and a game of cards most evening´s and the local security guard wants to take you home to meet the family!

I was still about for the official closing of the Fiesta Yamor which was great. Not nearly as extravagent as the opening, but a lot of fun all the same. Another parade, this time in the morning and only an hour long thank god! A great night of musica followed. The three piece boyband were a treat and their dance moves were just sensational. Had they have been around 10 years ago, I am sure they would have been top of the international boyband circuit!

I really would highly recommend this part of the world to anyone passing through. You have to stop for at least a few days and enjoy all it has to offer! It´s safe, the people are so friendly, the Indian culture and tradition is still so alive and respected. The beautiful, traditionally dressed women in their embroided blouses (which they manage to keep SO white in such a dusty town), their long black skirts and lovely jewellery. The men with their long single plait, sporting their felt hat´s and poncho´s! The women that look about 100, are so tiny, yet lug around all sorts of goods attached to their backs in a sack like contraption which is usually three times larger than the poor women themselves! And of course the kiddies. They are just beautiful with their little cherub faces and long black locks! Aside from the little niña´s with their pierced ears, it is difficult to tell the sexes apart given they all have that beautiful long, black, shiny hair. Add the surrounding countryside which is great for endless exploring, with somewhere new to discover and enjoy at every turn.

For now, I´m back in Quito, a monster of a city which I am not a huge fan of. But I am doing another week of Español lessons here which I am loving. Then before I know it, it will be the 18th and I will be heading off for the much awaited Galapagos Islands! The Galapagos trip alone will kill about two months worth of travel budget, but must be done. Until then...

Me, Marcelo & the Holy Ghost

Why is it that whenever I am on the other side of the world, I end up going to church?

Yes I am catholic, however not practising. The extent of any church going back at home is to attend the occassional wedding, christening or midnight mass come Christmas time.

While living in the UK quite a few years back, my friend Paul and I were in Paris for Easter. We decided to attend the Easter Sunday mass at Notre Dame. I think Paul thought I would burn in hell forever for actually taking photo´s during the service!

Then a couple of years ago while visiting the lovely Firenze, Italia, my friend Kate decided she would like to attend a catholic mass to see what it was like. Kate is an atheist by the way! But we went along for the service and the Italian church going experience.

Then last night here in Ecuador, I found myself attending mass once again. Marcelo is a local who has been showing me the sights and has been a great source of entertainment since arriving in Otavalo. Yesterday we went for a walk to a nearby community, Peguche and visited the nearby waterfall. When we returned to town, Marcelo in his limited English (although much better than my limited Spanish), asked if I would like to have a look inside the lovely old church in the centre of town. I did not realise having a look inside actually meant attend the mass! But, what could I say once we were in there? So I sat through an Ecuadorian catholic mass. It was much more lively than any other catholic service I have attended. Lots of singing and clapping. There was also a baptism. All very exciting! But it was when everyone broke into the Español version of Simon & Garfunkels, Sounds of Silence that truly made the evening. It was also during this sing along that Marcelo lent over and whispered in my ear, "Roxana, maybe you come back to Otavalo and we will have a grande wedding and many niño´s baptised in this Otavalo church". I almost fell off the pew laughing. Maybe I shouldn´t have....at this rate it could be the closest I come to a marriage proposal yet!

Dancing In The Streets

Well, I have been in the lovely Otavalo, Ecuador for just over a week now and was fortunate enough this past weekend to experience the annual "Fiesta del Yamor". The fiesta is named after a non-alcoholic corn drink, Yamor, which is made of 7 varieties of corn. It doesn´t taste too bad I have to admit. The owner of the hostel where I am staying tell´s me the fiesta is a celebration, thanking god for the year´s supply of food.

And what a celebration it was! An exciting vibe was all over town in the days leading up to the big event. By the time the "opening night" finally arrived, the town was in complete party mode. A massive 4 hour parade opened the fiesta on Friday night. Four hours a little long I thought, but the locals thrived on it and the atmosphere was fantastic. There were floats carrying everyone from rose throwing fiesta queens to local politicians. There were dancers in traditional dress from regions all over Ecuador. There was music, there was singing, there was dancing and of course, loads of fireworks! Bands, DJ´s, the dancing and singing continued on the streets and in venues across town until the early hours of the morning. I have to say, the Ecuadorians certainly know how to party. And the men certainly know how to dance!

Saturday, the fiesta continued with more music and dancing in the centre. There was bull fighting in the afternoon and other various forms of entertainment, through to late in the evening once again. And the tourists. Mostly Ecuadorian. People were everywhere! The small population must have at least tripled over the weekend? And in addition to the fiesta, the weekly and very popular Saturday market was on. The market is the reason for most tourists to stop in Otavalo. It is said to be one of the most important markets in Inca history. Streets are closed and stalls are erected everywhere! Locals and tourists alike flock to the market to browse, shop & barter. Plaza de Ponchos is the centre of the action. It is here you can find everything from weavings, jewellery, art, musical instruments and much more, all locally made. Moving away from the plaza you will find everything from clothing, shoes, poncho´s, street food & fresh fruit and veg. It was quite the eventful day.

To end the day´s excitement, what´s a girl to do but go and watch the Saturday night Cock Fighting! Yes, you heard right. I sat at the cock fighting ring for a good hour witnessing what I found to be border line disturbing, yet strangley fascinating? The local security guard who escorted me to this traditional and weekly event, (yes, you heard right again), found my reaction to it all most amusing. I could barely watch when we first entered, yet found myself asking the "rules" and taking a few photo´s by the time we left. The locals take it very seriously. There is yelling, cheering, drinking, smoking, abusing the referees (yes, there are 2 referees), and there is BIG money being passed around! The poor little cock´s even have small blades attached to their little legs. They crow, rip each others feathers out, peck at each others eyes until one of them basically can take no more, gives in and collapses. Not die, just collapse, feathers flat to the ground. It´s almost like when a boxer is knocked out? Bizarre! I also had the priviledge of witnessing a new cock fighting record...a cock was "knocked out" in less than a minute! Unheard of apparently? The crowd were astounded. The winning cock´s owner elated.

By the time Sunday came around, I was well and truly ready to escape the still manic town, and head for the hills. Myself, a lovely German couple, one Swiss and one English girl set off for a leisurely Sunday stroll around Laguna Cuicocha, a crater lake that lies within an extinct and eroded volcano. 12km´s and 4 1/2 hours later, we were both physically and mentally exhausted, filthy dirty, yet on quite a high! The hike although tough going at times, was great. The first half to three quarters of the hike was pretty much climbing what felt like endless peaks. Add the altitude and it just made it that little bit more challenging? Thankfully the final hour was mostly flat or down hill! But throughout, the views across the lake, out to Volcàn Cotacachi and the surrounding Andean forest were beautiful. Well worth the moments of "what the hell am I doing!"

A few hours later, the five of us were showered and fresh as daisy´s, filling up on pasta and a Margarita or two! It was the perfect wind down to what was a great weekend.