I arrived in Arequipa last Thursday, a small colonial city about 10hours south of Cusco. Arequipa is lovely little place, nestled in a valley surrounded by towering volcano's and mountains. After a few days exploring the city, the odd temple, church and convent, I decided it was time to get active again and go hike the Cañon Del Colca. The Colca Canyon is the second highest canyon in the world at 3200m. I guess the decision to hike this canyon was the first sign my brain may in fact be shrinking?
Saturday morning, 1.00AM. I was met at the hostel by my canyon trekking guide, Alex. (Yes, your read right...1.00AM. Second sign my brain must be shrinking) As we walked a block or two dodging the drunks heading home, or more than likely on to their next bar, we finally stopped a cab to take us to the bus station. We boarded the 1.30am departing bus which left at 2am and broke down at 2.20am! By 2.35am we were on another bus and on our way. The bus ride was about a 5 hour journey with probably 65% being dirt and rocky road. Even on the roads that were paved, our speed demon bus driver must have had a 100% success rate when it came to aiming for and driving right over the many potholes that crossed our path along the way. Needless to say, I did not manage to get ANY sleep at all. Alex on the other hand was next to me sleeping like a baby much to my annoyance and envy. At least he shared his blanket with me, for my 3 layers of clothing were just not doing the job of keeping me warm!
We arrived in a tiny town called Chivay around 7am where we stopped for half an hour to have some brekky. By this time I was just about ready for bed! Instead, we hopped on another bus for the half hour drive to La Cruz del Condor. It was here I had my first view of the canyon I was soon to hike, and for the 3rd time that morning I truly believed my brain was shrinking and at an incredibly rapid rate at that! We picked up one other trekker here who would join Alex and I for the 2 day adventure. Sarah was from Manchester and at the end of her 10 months travels, most of which were in Australia and New Zealand. Once she joined us we had one final, but short bus ride before arriving at the starting point of our trek. With no time to waste, we were on our way.
Two and half hours later we arrived in a tiny village and had our first and only stop for the day to have some lunch. Although we hadn't been trekking long, it was hard going on the old knees as it was all down hill, relatively steep and very rocky. It was only just on midday at this point and already incredibly hot. Being so hot and not one to eat straight after or during any physical activity, the Alpaca that was served up for lunch, although tasty was barely touched. Instead I downed a luke warm lemonade and two bottles of water. Another hour passed and we were off again with much of the same type of trekking for the remainder of the day. It was so very hot, and so very steep, but you would often forget as you admired the amazing scenery that constantly surrounded you. We also had two condors flying right above us at one point. They are huge and extraordinary looking creatures!
By 4pm we had arrived at what was called The Oasis. This was where we would have dinner and spend the night in a tiny bamboo hut. It was all very quaint. The nearby river and waterfalls, a pool, no power, just candle light. There were three other small groups of trekkers staying at the Oasis, so we all dined together comparing our day's experiences. Everyone was in bed by 9pm after the long exhausting day we had all encountered. Plus we had to be up at 2.30am the following morning to commence day 2 of trekking. (Yet another confimation of my brain shrinkage condition) Unfortunately I was to suffer a bout of insomnia much to my horror. I think I was soooo overtired that I just could not sleep? So when 2.30AM came around......grrrrr!!!
As we set off in the dark with only the moon and our small torches for light, I felt remarkably well? I was enjoying it being so dark, still and quiet. And you could not see the monster of a canyon we were now climbing out of! Day 1 we had started at 3200m and hiked down to 1000m. About 15km's overall. Day 2 was only around 4km's of trekking, however ALL up hill and steep, rocky terrain. The first 2 1/2 hours were quite ok. I was walking at a good pace and to some degree, feeling better than what I did on the downhill the day before. As the first light hit the canyon and surrounding mountains, everything looked absolutely spectacular. Photo's just can't capture the beauty of it all. To sit there and take it all in, watching everything slowly appear before you was yet another breathtaking, magical moment.
Before long disaster struck. I hit a wall. A huge wall. The only way I can think to describe how I felt would be like comparing myself to a car that has ran out of petrol. It just won't go. I just couldn't move? I was suddenly so mentally and physically exhausted that I felt numb? I have never experienced such a feeling? It was awful. I felt sick. I felt dizzy. I was wondering how the hell I was going to make it the rest of the way? Mind you, there was only 30minutes of hiking to go. The top was SO close. I had climbed SO far. I felt distraught. Alex was ahead of me and turned back to see where I had gotten to. He said I looked terrible and thought I must have had a fall and given myself a scare. He quickly realised that was not the case. Just as he was looking slightly worried himself, an old man and his two mules were coming down from the top of the canyon. Alex stopped the man and instructed I ride the mule to the top. I suddenly felt so traumatised that I was not going to hike to the end, tears were welling up in my eyes as I mounted the feisty mule. I felt like such a child, but I was so tired I just couldn't stop those ridiculous tears rolling down my face. Alex tried to reassure me this was the best option given my current state, but the tears still flowed. He jumped on the other mule and we were at the top of the canyon in 7 lousy minutes. That is how close I was to finishing. There was no sense of accomplishment like you usually feel after completing something so challenging. No dillusional second wind you think you have while on that accomplishment high. I just felt like I could drop dead and sleep for a week. Devastated.
We were back in Chivay at 6.30am for breakfast. A private minibus picked us up around 8.30am. We had a leisurely trip back to Arequipa with 7 other visitors to the canyon. They had not trekked though. We were the only smelly, exhausted three on the minibus. We had a few photo stops on the way and some lunch. We were back in Arequipa late afternoon. It beat the public bus ride. I am still suffering from insomnia? Still incredibly tired and still not entirely sure I am grateful that the old man and his mules appeared when they did? If they hadn't, I would have had to finish the hike. I guess i'm lucky they did considering how I felt though? Well I had never ridden a mule, so I should try and look at the upside of the new experience maybe? Hmmmm.....nahhhh! Just not the same unfortunately and I won´t be convinced otherwise!
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