Two weeks in to my Bolivian adenture and it´s been boy´s all the way. Of course I´m not complaining! There has been the odd female traveller, however they are never solo and never hanging around too long? So, the boy´s and I it has been!
It all started back in Copacabana, my first stop in Bolivia and just over the Peruvian border. After a rocky start with my food poisoning episode, a couple of days in this sleepy lakeside town was just what the doctor ordered. Blissful afternoons lazing on the shore of the worlds highest navigable lake, Lake Titicaca. Clear blue skies, sun forever shining, temperatures in the high 20´s and the deep blue sparkling lake had me back to my old self in no time. I took a boat ride across the lake to visit the lovely Isla del Sol and do some hiking. It was here I met Darren, quite the English gentleman and incredibly funny. He reminded me alot of a great English friend of mine, Paul (aka Fluff!). We then met Michael, an older American from LA. He was very LA! Retired music producer, recording studio owner and author of three books. He may have been very LA, but was also incredibly bright, eccentric, funny and generous. He had hired his own boat and personal tour guide for a few days. He invited us to join him and we ended up having a fantastic couple of day´s on the island and back in Copa.
Next stop, La Paz. The worlds highest capital city. Well substitute capital. But what a city! When you catch your first glimpse, you can´t help but let out a ¨WOW¨. It´s quite an extraordinary and unique sight. Sitting in a canyon surrounded by incredible rock formations, green, bare and snowcapped mountains, with thousands of buildings and houses built from the bottom of the canyon up. I spent my first couple of days just wandering this unique city, taking it all in. I also joined in on a city tour and visited the Moon Valley. I am not exactly sure what it was I was expecting from La Paz, but it´s nothing I could have ever imagined. I was drawn to it instantly, and have enjoyed my time here ever since.
After a couple of days playing tourist, I decided it was time for some adrenaline filled activity and signed up to mountain bike down Death Road, the worlds most dangerous road. And yes, it was just me and the boys! It appears no girls were up for the task on this particular day? 68km´s long, starting at 4700m, finishing at 1200m with the most stunning & dramatic scenery along the way. Death Road is all dirt, sheer drops of 100´s of metres or more and only wide enough for one way traffic, however traffic does go both ways! There are crosses planted all the way down death road where bikes, vehicles and their passengers have toppled over the edge, falling to their death. Statistics say there are approximately 100 deaths per year on this stretch of road? A recent tragedy was only 2mths back when a bus with 39 passengers perished after going over the edge in the early morning hours. The bus still lies at the base of the cliff where you can see it´s blue roof way, way down from the edge of the road. Biking is by far the safest way to travel the road. You do pick up speeds of around 60km´s per hour and take some hair raising bends, but as long as you listen to your guide and stop for the passing buses and trucks, you should be ok?
The bike ride ended in the small town of Coroica, but only half the adventure complete. A couple of hours rest, a swim, shower, beer and lunch, it was time to jump in our support vehicle for the first time that day and drive back up Death Road for the return to La Paz. This was by far more frightening, particularly with the enormous trucks and buses driving in the opposite direction! As you watch these buses and trucks attempting to pull over on a slightly wider section of the road to allow you to pass, the shivers run straight up your spine as they manouvre about right on the cliff´s edge. Even worse when the mist sets in and the visibility poor, you constantly dread an oncoming truck not seeing your minibus in time on one of the many deathly bends. Quite terrifying knowing the statistics!
Once safely returned to La Paz, it was the boys and I out on the town for some well deserved drinks and endless banter of our fantastic adrenaline filled day, planning what activity would be next on the agenda...
I decided I might like to get away from the high altitude for a few days, seek out the hotter weather and head to the jungle. Two days later I was boarding an 18 seater plane where the door would not shut, you had to crouch right down upon entry given the very low roof and then grab the first available seat as the flight is often overbooked! Everyone had a clear view of the pilot and out the front window, therefore my panic set in immediately. I couldn´t quite believe I was about to put myself through yet another flight on a small aircraft? Even more terrifying was when we hit a storm where the turbulence was the worst I have ever experienced. Most passengers were being bumped around so much our heads would hit the roof. White knuckled and about to vomit, we finally landed at Rurrenabaque airport which consists of a grass runway and a simple shed. Extreme heat and humidity our welcome.
I had a day and night to kill in the tiny, relaxed town of Rurrenabaque before heading off to the jungle. I actually ran into 3 English lads and 1 Scotsman who I met and have been constantly running into since Nasca. They are great fun and certainly love to party. So again it was me and the boys and off we went for a night out at the Moskkito Bar. It was the biggest night I have had since leaving Australia! We started at 5pm and finished about 3am I am lead to believe? Not a great idea when I had an 8.30am departure the following morning. Especially when the day starts with a 3hour 4WD trip along bumpy dirt road in the sweltering heat. It wasn´t pretty I can assure you. I was not a well girl!
Our jungle group consisted of an American, Canadian, Frenchman, Dutchman, Englishman and me. All boys yet again. And all under the age of 25! They were all fantastic and any reservations I initially had soon disappeared. We stayed in a basic lodge, had a great guide, great cook and a great time. We spotted all types of birdlife, aligators, monkeys, pink dolphins just to name a few. We went out on morning and evening boat rides, checking out the wildlife, listening to the sounds of the jungle or just to star gaze from our boat. We went on a 4hour hike in search of Anacondas! We did find a baby...about 2 years old apparently. We also came across an amazing looking Green Mamba. You have an hour to get to a hospital if this deadly snake manages to take a bite! Lazy evenings were spent slothed in hammocks chatting away until the late hours. And, we even managed to squeeze in some jewellery making using string, nuts and small black seeds from some type of small fruit. Our guide also made me a special little ¨nut ring¨. The special gift for the special girl!
Once we were back in Rurrenabaque it was one final evening together, all agreeing our time was ending too soon. Although, we had had enough of the jungle given we were covered in mosquito bites from head to toe! No amount of repellant or long sleeved clothing could keep those little critters away. They were definately the only downside to the trip. Anyway, as we all said our goodbyes I really was a little sad it had come to an end. Playing with the boys has definately been a lot of fun. Still a couple of weeks to go in this crazy country though, so who knows what adventures lie ahead?
No comments:
Post a Comment